Portal de Murcia
www.portaldemurcia.com
April 27, 2009
Juan Carlos García Gallego and José María López Rodríguez, decided not to return to base camp and continue climbing the mountain, despite suffering from insufficient acclimatization and passed bad nights in field 1.
Tired and weakened many have managed to complete in two days, installation and supply of field 2, to 6700 m.
"It was hard but it was worth, academics have been down to consolidate the acclimatization and rest, but in the Himalayas if you can not stop the summit if the weather leaves you a break and allowed to continue.
We were lucky with the time and we seized the opportunity, but now we have to descend to base camp and recover. "
"The climb from camp 1 and 2 is very complex due to pass in its entirety by the glacier that hangs from the steep hillside offering in this section the Makalu.
The course requires many laps looking for a way through the cracks, usually take advantage of ice bridges or climb the courts secured by ropes to prevent accidents.
Ensure the route across the glacier is slow and often too heavy and should be replaced by the widening or opening of a new crack. "
The camp has been installed on a plain surrounded in huge short cracks under a serac (wall of ice) to protect stores of potential avalanche slope that could be caused by accumulation of snow.
The location is in a privileged balcony to 6,700 meters, which is in front of Everest (8848) and Lothse (8511), first and third above the earth.
Mountaineers endured a tough night to 6,700 feet before descending to base camp to recover.
The night was complicated by the emergence of a strong wind that seemed like it would break the store.
Unfortunately the winds are quite typical of Makalu, whose name in Tibetan Maha Kala, meaning "the big black", referring to the great black pyramid of rock swept by the wind constantly.
The Murcia expected to recover in base camp a few days to launch an attack from 3-4 days to enable them to tackle the most technically challenging section of the mountain climbing, the steep slope of ice and rock that give access to the hill of the Makalu- , where the mountain slope changes, at 7,400 meters.
They have to supply their field III, lower back to base camp, recover and wait for good weather window allowed a pull up to the summit of Makalu (8463 m.).
Source: Club Montañero de Murcia
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